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Tea Varieties
There are so
many different types of tea that it may come as a surprise to learn they
are all made from pretty much the same plant. Of course, some are flavored
with essential oils (Earl Grey, for example, has oil of bergamot, which is
made from a type of bitter orange) or fragrant herbal additives (like the
jasmine flowers added to jasmine tea), but the basic ingredient, the tea
leaf itself, comes from the Camellia sinensis plant. It should
perhaps be clarified at this point that we are talking about
caffeinated teas, not "herbal" ones. Herbal teas have only come to be
called teas because they are steeped the way the real
thing is. Officially, an herbal tea -- that is, one made completely
from dried mint leaves or chamomile blossoms or rose hips or any
combination of herbs and spices that does not include the leaves of the
tea plant -- is actually an infusion or a tisane.
The tea plant is an evergreen shrub. As the name Camellia sinensis
suggests, it is related to the same
camellias that are popular with American gardeners because they
produce showy, fragrant white or pink flowers during the winter, when most
other plants are dormant. In fact, wherever you can grow garden-variety
camellias (basically, in parts of the country where winters are mild), you
can probably have a tea bush. And although it won't produce a quality or
quantity of leaves that would justify going to the trouble to pluck,
prepare, steep, and sip them, you can still enjoy the yellow-centered
white flowers and congratulate yourself on possessing such a versatile and historically
important plant.
All tea begins with the harvesting of the newest foliage from the bush.
Only the unopened leaf bud and the top three or four tenderest leaves on a
branch are ever used. Next, the freshly plucked leaves go through a
process called "withering." They are put in a warm dry place for most of a
day and allowed to wilt until they contain only about 40% of their
original moisture. Then the leaves are "rolled" or "curled." This step
used to be done by hand, with the workers grabbing bunches of wilted
leaves and rolling them between the palms of their hands, pressing to
crush the leaf cells.
What happens next, however, makes all the difference in the world, as a
look at the meanings of just a few tea terms will show. Keep in mind that
this is just the very basics of tea terminology. This beverage inspires
reverence and connoisseurship, and those who are interested will find that
there are
plenty of tea-related phrases to learn and subtleties to discern.
All teas are either black, green, or
oolong:
-
- Black Tea
Black teas are by far the most popular teas in the West. They are
the teas of fancy tea parties, of the Boston Tea Party, of the British
concept of "tea and sympathy." They are sweetened and served over ice in
the American South. The crucial step in making black tea is to allow the
juices in the rolled fresh leaves to darken from contact with the air.
Tea makers call this process "fermentation," although, technically, it
is "oxidation." A similar process occurs when the flesh of a cut apple
turns brown. The dark substances that form while the tea leaves are
exposed to the air are produced by the chemical reactions of the tannins
in the tea. They give the tea astringency, robust flavor and aroma, and
they leach into hot water to produce the characteristic reddish-amber
color (the Chinese, preferring to designate the tea by its color after
brewing as opposed to before, call black teas "red teas"). The oxidizing
stage of tea processing does not take long, no more than four hours.
When the leaves have transformed sufficiently, then they are "fired,"
dried over heat to stop the oxidation process.
Green Tea
Green teas, on the other hand, are very popular in Asia and are only
just beginning to catch on here. Green tea is made by preventing the tea
leaves from ever oxidizing at all. Instead, the leaves are steamed right
after the withering stage, which destroys the enzymes that would
otherwise cause the darkening. The steamed leaves are rolled and
immediately fired. Thus, the dried tea leaves remain green, and the
brewed tea, a pale green liquid, has a subtle, slightly bitter flavor,
with grassy hints of the flavor of the fresh plant. Because the tannins
do not go through the oxidizing process, which has a mellowing effect,
green tea can be bitterer, more astringent than black, especially if it
is steeped for a long time.
Oolong and Pouchong Teas
Oolongs and pouchongs are "semi-fermented" teas. That is, they are
processed the same way that black teas are, but they aren't allowed to
oxidize fully. For pouchong tea, the oxidizing step is reduced to about
one-quarter of the full length. Oolongs (which are more popular),
ferment longer, about half as long as a black tea. Predictably, the
flavor of a semi-fermented tea is somewhere in between black tea and
green tea. Particularly good oolongs are supposed to have a peachy
flavor and aroma. One of the best of these, Formosa Oolong, is produced
on the island of Taiwan. The word Formosa comes from the name given to
Taiwan by 16th-century Portuguese explorers. Ilha Formosa, they called
it "Beautiful Island."
The basics mastered, there are still many variables to consider. Take
just a few:
- Pekoe teas
The word "pekoe," which is used in grading black teas, is a
corruption of the Chinese word meaning "silver-haired." This refers to
the silvery down found on especially young tea leaves. "Orange Pekoe" is
a type familiar to most tea drinkers, and those who have tasted it are
aware that it is neither flavored with oranges nor especially
orange-colored. In this case, "Orange" probably comes from the Dutch
royal family, the House of Orange. (The Dutch played a major role in
bringing tea to the West, and the Dutch East India Company was the first
large tea trading company in Europe.) So Orange Pekoe tea is a fancy
grade of black tea, as indicated by the reference to Dutch nobility and
the fact that it contains particularly young tea leaves. There are numerous grades of
and variations on pekoe tea. In brief, the fancier it is, the younger
the leaves used to make it -- and the less likely they are to have
broken during processing. Tippy Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe, for
example, is made with the very tips of the branches, the leaf buds,
which turn golden during fermenting. Broken Pekoe is made with fewer
leaf tips, more stems, and the leaves are no longer whole. Pekoe
Fannings and the smaller Pekoe Dust are tea leaves that have been
crushed even more during processing. Fannings and dust are often used in
tea bags because they release color and flavor into hot water more
rapidly than larger or more tightly rolled pieces.
Gunpowder, Imperial, and Hyson teas
Among Chinese green teas, Gunpowder, Hyson, and Imperial are
popular. Gunpowder is made with high-grade, young leaves that have been
rolled into small, tight balls. The loose tea looks a little like small
lead shot. Hyson (the word means "young spring") teas are also made with
young leaves, but they are not rolled so tightly. The Imperial
designation indicates that a tea has been made with slightly older
leaves.
Darjeeling and Assam teas
The climate and terrain in the area where tea shrubs are grown have
a considerable effect on the flavor of the harvest, so regions of origin
are often a part of a tea's name. Assam and Darjeeling teas, two
favorites from India, are examples of this. In the early 19th century,
the British, eager to gain control of a tea-producing area, were
thrilled to discover tea plants (now known as Camellia sinensis, var.
assamica) growing wild in Assam, the very northeastern region of India.
Soon, they had their colonists producing great quantities of Assam tea
to supply the Empire. At Darjeeling, less than 200 miles from where
those first wild tea plants were found, the tea estates have been built
at famously high altitudes. The town is in the Himalyas, and, in fact,
has a view of Mount Everest when the weather permits. The altitude is
credited with giving the tea plants the benefit of a long, slow growing
season. Tea made from leaves picked in May and early June is light and
flowery; the best, most complex, and most expensive teas are made from
leaves harvested in June and July. By August, the approaching monsoon
has diminished the quality of the harvest, and from January to April the
plants do not produce usable growth.
Matcha
The greenest of the green teas, matcha, is made from very
high-quality tea leaves ground into a fine powder. It is associated
especially with the ritual Japanese ceremony, the Chado, or the "Way of Tea."
The powder, which is stored in a container called a natsume, is bright
spring-leaf green. It is prepared by using a special bamboo whisk to mix
the powder and hot water. The final product is a cloudy emerald liquid
topped with a layer of brilliant green foam. It is traditionally sipped
out of a small bowl. Because the actual tea particles are held in
suspension in the water, rather than being steeped and strained out in
the usual way, matcha is very strong and bitter. Most westerners take
some time to become accustomed to its flavor.
The Brew
Few indulgences are simpler to prepare than a nice cup of tea. Really,
no more than boiling and steeping is involved. But still, connoisseurs
insist that there is a Right way to do it. And while this is nothing so
complex as a Japanese tea ceremony, the process by which a mug of
steaming, fragrant, perfectly-steeped tea is produced is a small ritual in
itself.
First, measure out the tea leaves and set them aside. The rule of thumb
is to add one teaspoon (or teabag) per cup and "one for the pot." If you
are using loose tea leaves, you can put them into a tea ball, a perforated
container that allows the leaves to steep but keeps them from floating
freely in the water. Many people just add the loose leaves to the pot
without worrying about the tea ball, though. Generally, they'll sink in
the water as they steep, so they don't clog the spout of the pot, and you
don't end up with a cup full of soggy leaves. Pouring the tea through a
strainer helps to catch floating leaves before they make it into the cup.
The ideal cup of tea is made with fresh, cool water. It's not worth it
to trim down the boiling time by using hot water from the tap. Or to save
yourself exertion by turning up the flame under a kettle half-filled with
water left over from yesterday. Water for tea should have a high oxygen
content, which makes its flavor lively rather than flat. Both hot tap
water and preboiled water have already been partially deoxygenated.
As soon as the water reaches a "rolling boil" -- but not before --
remove it from the heat. Letting it boil for too long allows oxygen to
escape. Not letting it reach the boiling point at all means your tea water
isn't as hot as it can be. And the hotter it is, the more effectively it
dissolves the flavors, colors, and caffeine out of the leaves. Before
combining tea leaves and water, drizzle a bit of boiling water into the
pot, swish it around, and pour it out. Then drop the tea leaves in. The
purpose of this preheating step is twofold: the steamy air softens the tea
leaves so they release their flavors more readily once they are in the
water, and the warm pot helps the tea stay hot a little longer. Finally,
fill the pot with water.
In 3 to 5 minutes, depending on your taste, the tea is ready to be
served. Some tea lovers prefer to remove the tea leaves at this point,
because longer steeping makes a bitterer brew. If you are making green
tea, 3 minutes should be sufficient to reach the optimum flavor -- a
longer brewing time can make the tea too astringent.
How Much of a Buzz?
Just how much of a boost can a drowsy person expect to get from a
fragrant cup of tea? It depends on several factors. A 6-ounce cup of black
tea can (if brewed long enough) provide over 100 mg of caffeine, about as
much as an average cup of coffee. There is a catch, though. The longer the
tea sits in the water, the more the tannins leach out with the caffeine.
This can make the tea unnecessarily bitter and upset some sensitive
stomachs. One thing you can do, if you're determined to drink your tea
coffee-strength, is add milk. It will bind to the tannins and neutralize
them, without affecting the caffeine. If you're one of those people who
prefers to dangle a tea bag in hot water just until the liquid turns a
pretty color, you won't get much caffeine at all. The tea leaves release
the color first -- caffeine takes a bit longer to start to dissolve. So,
at the low end of the stimulant-spectrum, a cup of tea provides about 20
mg of caffeine. As a general rule, you can expect a cup of black tea to
have about 50 mg.
As for oolong and green teas, they both have less caffeine than black.
It appears that the early fermentation (oxidization) process makes the
caffeine more easily soluble in hot water. So, the shorter the oxidation
stage, the less caffeine the brewed tea provides. Semi-fermented oolong
teas have between 10 and 55 mg of caffeine per 6-ounce cup. Green teas,
which are never allowed to oxidize at all, have between 8 and 15 mg.
Herbal Teas
Tea that is made using various herbs and flowers, either alone or in
combination, is called an herbal tea. Herbal teas can be made with tea
leaves as an ingredient or without. Teas made without the use of tea
leaves will obviously not contain any caffeine, but are used for the
inherent properties and characteristics of the herbs themselves. The
examples below will cover both types.
Chamomile
One of the safest medicinal herbs, chamomile is a soothing, gentle
relaxant that has been shown to work for a variety of complaints from
stress to menstrual cramps. This herb has a satisfying, apple-like aroma
and flavor (the name chamomile is derived from the Greek kamai melon,
meaning ground apple), and it's most often taken as a delicious, mild
therapeutic tea. Concentrated extracts of chamomile are also added to
healing creams and lotions or packaged as pills and tinctures.
Two species of chamomile--German chamomile and Roman chamomile--are
used in healing and both work equally well. In North America and central
Europe, products made from the German--sometimes called
Hungarian--chamomile (Matricaria recutita) are the most widely
available. In Great Britain, Roman (or English) chamomile (Chamaemelum
nobile or Anthemis nobilis) is more commonly sold.
Simply add two teaspoons of flowers to your diffuser and poor in the
hot water. Cover and let steep for 3-4 minutes before enjoying a very
relaxing evening treat. I highly recommend buying whole. organic German
flowers. The taste and scent are remarkable and the potency is amazing. |